What are the basic stitches?

What are the basic stitches?

 It takes many steps to sew a beautiful garment.  After taking measurements and cutting the fabric accordingly, we need to stitch the different pieces together with the help of different types of stitches.  Sewing is a stitch by joining two or more pieces of fabric together with the help of needle and thread, by moving the needle of the thread up and down in two pieces of cloth.  Care should be taken to thread only the required amount of thread through the needle so that it does not get tangled while making stitches.  Like any other profession, sewing has some basic rules and principles that are absolutely necessary to follow, and some of these rules are as follows:

   It is essential to have knowledge about basic stitches before proceeding to make a garment because:

   a) To make the cut pieces of cloth into a garment, they have to be affixed with the help of stitches.

   b) There are different types of fabrics available in the market today.  To be able to successfully sew them all, we need to hold them together temporarily.  For example nylon fabric, silk etc.

   c) Sometimes basic stitches are used to give a neat finish to a garment such as hemming.

   types of stitches

   temporary stitches

   Temporary stitches are those used to loosely join two pieces of fabric to ensure that the pieces fit together, with the darts showing up at the correct points.  These stitches are opened after the fabric is sewn.  These also help keep the pieces in place while sewing.  These are of different types, such as:

   Basting Stitch: It is used to join two pieces of fabric together.  This helps keep slippery materials together in a straight line while sewing.

 

   1a.  Even basting: All stitches are the same length.  This is achieved by taking the same amount of thread at the same distance for the top and bottom stitches.

   1b.  Uneven basting: All stitches are spaced apart but of the same length, i.e. the thread taken for the top and bottom stitches is the same length but at a different distance from each other.

   1c.  Zigzag basting: This zigzag stitch is used to hold two pieces together when the fabric is slippery or to attach a lining fabric.

   2. Thread marks: This is a type of temporary stitch, which is removed after sewing the fabric.  It is used in situations where you cannot use pencil or chalk to mark the fabric.  Sewn very loosely, one stitch is small, and the next one is large, used primarily on fabrics that require several tests, etc., before final fitting.  It is usually made with a double thread, but is always made on a double layered fabric.  The stitches are adjacent to each other.  Made loosely, the needle is pulled out a specified distance and then inserted into the same position and then a second stitch is made with a certain looseness in the thread.

   permanent stitches

   1. Hemming: Used on almost every garment.  Can also be replaced with a simple running stitch, but to enhance the beauty of a garment, hemming is used as the most important stitch.  It is almost invisible on the right side of the garment and very small stitches on the wrong side.

   Method: As a single thread is inserted into the needle and a very small edge of the cloth is taken or a single strand is taken from the folded surface.  The needle is passed through the single strand and across the surface of the fabric to give a clean edge and finishing touch.  Used on sleeves, neck, skirt etc.

 

   2. Slip Hemming: Similar to ordinary hemming but the stitches are taken slightly apart from each other.  It is commonly used on slippery materials like silk, nylon etc.

   Method: As the name suggests, this stitch is similar to hemming but in a more lateral (sliding) position.  Used to finish cuffs, necklines, etc.

   3. Narrow Hem: Stitches taken too close together.  It is generally considered very strong for finishing men's clothing like shirts, coats etc.

   Method: Using the same thread the stitches are sewn very close together.  The turn in part is stitched firmly using this method of moving the needle in and out of the turn and the rest of the garment.

   4. Blind Hem: As the name suggests this stitch is almost invisible to the naked eye.  This has to be done very carefully to give a neat finish.  It is mainly used in men's apparel.

   Method: The folded part is stitched so closely to the main part of the garment that only one thread can be taken at a time, making it almost invisible.

   5. Rolled Hem: Used on fine materials.  The edges of sarees, edges of reels, puff sleeves etc are finished using rolled hem.

   Method: Similar to simple hemming but instead of taking a straight strip of fabric, a small edge is folded between the thumb and forefinger as a trend in the part and the stitch is applied to the inside surface.

   6. Circular Hem: Only one type of hem, but used on bias cut fabrics.  When one needs to fold a straight edge on a bias fabric, it is difficult to do so when this stitch comes in handy.  Used on umbrella cut frocks etc.  When the edge of the garment is always cut on the bias.

   Method: Bias cut cloth is used once inside.  The amount of fabric to be folded is twisted and a temporary stitch is loosened.  Then the thread is pulled a little so that the small things can be gathered.  The assemble is then stretched and then hammered into place.

 

   7. Fine Running Stitch: Only the fine dots of this stitch can be seen from the right side of the garment.  Primarily used for finishing fine fabrics such as the sides of the saree.

   Method: The needle is withdrawn from a predetermined distance.  The point where the needle leaves then determines the point from which a strand of thread is picked up for the next stitch.  The size of the garment has to be kept in mind while untucking this stitch.

   8. Padding Stitch: Used to set layers of fabric.  It is mainly used in coats.

   Method: Keep at an angle This stitch looks like a temporary stitch.  The first row is taken at a certain angle and in the next row the angle is taken in the opposite direction.  It is as if the stitching is standing.

   9. SAARJOO: Used in materials where fabric strings protrude.  In these cases the garment is not stitched.  Used in tricot trousers etc.  This stitch usually does not open.  It is used to keep allowance in clothing.

   Method: Used with a thread in the needle.  The needle is pulled out at an angle.  The stitches are taken at a distance from each other and kept loose.  You should take care that the thread does not come out while pulling the thread.

   10. Back Stitch: Used to join two pieces of fabric together using a hand stitch.  It is being used since the time the machine was not invented.  It is believed to have greater flexibility and is much stronger.  This stitch can be easily used on bias fabric as well.  The most important use is on churidar pajamas, the stitching is different from its right and wrong side.

   Method: A crease is created at the edge of the two pieces of fabric that need to be joined together.  A small margin is taken at the top and bottom and small stitches are taken together.

   11. Button Hole: Of utmost importance in the trade of sewing, as it is used on almost all types of garments – women, men and children.  There needs to be an opening somewhere on the garment for ease of wearing and taking off.  Most such openings are closed with the help of buttonhole stitches.  The button hole is always made at the top.  The buttonhole stitch is used to finish the button hole.  It is made on two or more layers of fabric.  The button hole has a slight curve on one side known as a fan and an edge on the other side known as a bar.

   Method: First choose the distance between each button hole.  Then use the tip of the scissors to poke holes in the fabric, taking into account the diameter of the button.  Finish the edge with a makeshift stitch to make sure no loose strings come out.  Always cut the button hole in the direction of the grain line.  Then finish the edge with a buttonhole stitch using a single thread, keeping a little extra tension on the 'fan' side to make a sort of chain stitch that is pressed down after the buttonhole ends.

   12. Hook Eye: An opening can be closed by means other than a button and a buttonhole.  One of these is Hook and Eye.  There are hooks of different sizes available to suit different purposes and clothing like trousers or blouses.  The hook is usually fixed half a point behind the edge of the belt.  It is fixed using buttonhole stitch.  It is fixed like a bow from two edges down and one point above.  Simple hooks are best used with an eye made of thread by hand, using a button hole stitch.  The large hooks used for trousers usually come with a metal finished eye which is also affixed using a buttonhole stitch.

   13. Press Buttons: These are metal buttons with a hole in one part and a nail to fit into the hole in the other.  The nail part is always placed on top and the bottom part is on the bottom.  It is also affixed using button hole stitch.

   14. Buttons: The different types of buttons available in the market differ in that they have different number of holes – 2 or 4.  The method of fixing them remains the same.  The location where the button needs to be fixed is determined and then the needle is drawn first from one and then the other to fix the button properly.  There should be a slight slack in the stitching so that the button can easily pass through the hole in the button.